(sorry i left everyone hanging … I’m sure the suspense was terrible …)
So, when we got into Ajo we met Dave’s brother Eric, who helped with the filming in the Cabeza Prieta.
In a nutshell, the Cabeza Prieta is a weird place, I’m sure partly to do with it’s location in Arizona. And by that i mean, it sits squarely on the fence between “national wilderness treasure” and “pipeline for illegal immigration and (purportedly) drugs from Mexico” with a little “live miltary training” thrown in for good measure.
The Cabeza Prieta is designated wilderness, meaning that in addition to all the other protections found in places like National Parks, there’s usually no motorized anything. ANYTHING. Which definitely includes cars. However, somehow, anyone can drive in certain parts of the Cabeza Prieta. Our first few days there, we drove in and camped at Charlie Bell Pass.

And in addition, the Border Patrol and arms of the state and federal Fish and Wildlife Service can drive in more places that the public can’t drive. So it was weird. At Charlie Bell, we didn’t run into any illegal immigrants or Border Patrol. We just hiked around, and realized almost as soon as we got there that we were too far north to find Edward Abbey.
Even though the men who buried Abbey haven’t told anyone where he is buried, a couple have alluded to the location in books they’ve published. So we made an attempt to correlate the two accounts and figure out where the grave is. Clue 1, he’s buried in the Cabeza Prieta, in a volcanic mountain range. The Growler Mountains, where we were looking, is the only volcanic range in the Cabeza Prieta.

(the tiny range in the middle is actually much bigger — i put these photos together in photoshop, and it gave it a major fisheye perspective.)
Clue 2, he’s buried at the south end of the range. We started at Charlie Bell Pass to the north, then realized it was too far, and started heading south. After leaving Charlie Bell, we headed to Temporal Pass, which is near the middle of the range. We had to hike about 8 or 9 miles, first down a dirt road and then into the desert some, to get to the pass where we stayed one night.

We had to carry all our water, so we couldn’t stay longer. But by that point we figured the grave was probably farther south even than Temporal, so we weren’t too concerned. However, Temporal Pass, according to the US Fish and Wildlife Service, is a main thoroughfare for the illegal immigrants who are coming into Ajo. And they weren’t kidding. We never saw anyone, but we definitely heard a group, and the pass up there is littered with stuff that people drop on their way into Ajo.

The people crossing the desert, if they’re lucky, are driven across in the dead of night in trucks and vans. You can hear them sometimes depending on where you’re camping. The less lucky ones walk across, and Temporal Pass into Ajo is the final leg of that trip. The pass is covered in empty cans of food, empty plastic water bottles (the ones you buy at the grocery store), plastic bottles of juice and mexican soda, and even things like shoes and pants. Having hiked in that desert fully equipped, I don’t know how they do it. I feel like if they can hack it across that desert, maybe they deserve automatic citizenship.
Also, sidenote, i saved us from utter starvation. We had packed everything we needed for dinner after a 9 mile hike, but someone (not me) forgot the pot to boil the water in to cook everything. I happened to carry my tin cup that Dad got me for camping years ago, so we were able to jury rig dinner by cooking it in tiny parts in the cup, and then mixing it all together in a makeshift bowl we cut from a plastic water jug. Otherwise, we would have been doomed to a dinner of Clif Bars, and no one wants that.
Anyway, we hiked out of Temporal Pass that next morning and drove into Ajo to spend a night at the motel taking showers and charging phones, went out to breakfast, and then drove into Organ Pipe National Monument, which butts up against the Cabeza Prieta at the southernmost end of the Growler range.
